July 2009

Extreme Greenhouse: Blown Away by a Creative Small Grower
07/24/2009 - 13:36

Garden & Greenhouse Logo.
Contributed from Garden and Greenhouse Magazine

by Michelle Moore

Keeping Accurate Records is the Key

Just a few miles upriver from the self-proclaimed “windsurfing capitol of the world” lies the small town of Dallesport, Washington. When you head East along the Columbia River, the landscape changes quickly from thick forests to open land and rock. The small town, population 1200, boasts incredible views of Mt. Hood and the scenic Columbia River Gorge. Just a few miles from its greener and more temperate neighbors, Dallesport is a climate of extremes. Winter temperatures dip into the single digits, and summers hit 100° plus. Frequent winds of 55 to 60 miles per hour race through the gorge, although those winds are silent during the heat waves. This area of the world possesses a stark and striking beauty and enjoys sunny skies for 8 months of the year. It’s also home to one of the only greenhouse growers in the Gorge.

Jeff Dearborn and Karen Schwartz of J & K Growers began constructing their greenhouse in the fall nearly four years ago. Initially, the couple planned to cover their two-inch galvanized frame with six mil poly sheeting. After using double poly in their previous greenhouse, they planned to get by for a while with this method. The plan worked…for about 30 days. The first heavy winds of about 55-mile per hour gusts ripped the plastic from the frame. Dearborn and Schwartz quickly decided they required a more durable glazing. Having investigated and used various products including: glass, corrugated single-wall polycarbonate, double-wall polycarbonate and Solexx, they choose to use a combination of borrowed, donated and purchased materials.

The Setup

This spacious structure is light, bright and warm. Plywood and insulation cover the northern wall of the 4000 square foot greenhouse for heat retention. The East and West facing end walls are covered with “borrowed” double-walled polycarbonate. The Southern walls are covered with single-wall corrugated polycarbonate. Some of the Southern wall has a layer of 6 mil poly over the polycarbonate to reduce the heat loss. The roof of the structure is covered with 5mm Solexx. The sidewalls are roughly 11 feet high with the roof peaking at 20 feet. The greenhouse is 33 feet from side to side and approximately 140 feet long. Exhaust fans are located on the end walls, and circulation fans are placed throughout the structure. The structure does not have roof vents and does not use cooling devices.

The winter greenhouse is heated with a combination of propane and hot water running through the propagation benches when warm weather crops are grown. The propane is used only when growing warm crops tomatoes. Cool crops require far less energy and heat providing a more sustainable winter harvest. Metal Halide and High Pressure Sodium grow lights provide supplemental light for crops requiring longer day lengths, but are used only if soil temperatures are high enough to support growth. All benches are placed at a comfortable working height and designed to be accessed and moved by forklift. Metal posts imbedded in concrete provide support for the benches and rows are configured to allow easy access. Planters consist of heavy plastic sheeting framed by wood. The plastic is filled with a mixture of coco fiber and pumice. Synthetic stings threaded through drainage holes direct excess water out of the planters onto the gravel flooring. Heating costs are reduced by running warm water through tubing placed in the benches rather than along the bottom. Water running through tubing in the growing media doesn’t need to be as hot as water along the bottom of the bench but is much more efficient. Drip irrigation delivers nutrients directly to the plants as needed.

Indoor Climate

Karen Schwartz keeps extensive records. She knows the high and low temperatures and what the outside temperature will do to the inside greenhouse environment. She knows that on a winter day, the inside temperature will be roughly 80°. The night time low in the greenhouse this year was 20°, which is too cool for fast growth but warm enough to keep everything alive. Growing a warm crop, such as tomatoes, requires more heat than some things like spinach, lettuce or broccoli. These cool crops are economical and sustainable to grow until late spring.

When the sun is out from March through October, temperatures increase substantially. Since the greenhouse does not have any cooling mechanisms in a hot climate, the greenhouse can get very hot in the summer. The highest temperature recorded was 122°. Although that is extremely hot, Dearborn and Schwartz determined the heat is not a problem in their greenhouse because the light coming through the Solexx roof is diffuse rather than direct. According to Dearborn, as long as plants have water, they do not burn. Dearborn believes minimizing temperature swings and creating a more stable environment is more important than controlling the temperature.

Another factor contributing to a consistent environment is the greenhouse insulation. The foam insulation on the northern wall provides a heat sink which both minimizes heat loss as well as reduces summer heating. The insulated Solexx roof also helps to maintain consistent temperatures. Dearborn and Schwartz report a significant savings from the insulation. They are able to maintain an indoor temperature 20° greater than the outdoor temperature without added heat.

During a research trip to Holland, Dearborn discovered the average heat loss from a glass greenhouse was 1 BTU per square foot per degree of temperature differential. A BTU is a British Thermal Unit, which is simply a measure of heat output. Most heaters have a BTU rating which is used to calculate the size of heater needed for a space with a given temperature target. Dearborn explained a 20° outside temperature and a 40° inside temperature would have a total heat loss of 20 BTU’s per hour per square foot. J & K Growers’ greenhouse has a heat loss of ½ to 1/3 BTU per hour resulting in significant savings over glass and other coverings. They have also discovered their corrugated polycarbonate has significantly more heat loss than glass. The corrugation designed to scatter light increases the surface area of the material by 40% and heat loss or retention is directly related to surface area.

Dearborn and Schwartz also report significant growth differences with diffused light. Plants growing within six feet of the clear sidewalls have decreased growth. This is attributed partially to the greater degree of temperature changes but also from direct versus indirect light. Plants located six feet or more from the sidewall do not have shadows or intense direct light. Schwartz routinely measures the plant growth and reports the results are consistent and significant regardless of the crop planted.

J & K Growers began growing strawberries, then added tomatoes to their offerings. Local restaurants and farmer’s markets gobbled up their heirloom crops and asked for more. This year Dearborn and Schwarz are growing a wide variety of vegetables. Their winter crops include arugula, peas, beans, spinach, lettuce, kohlrabi, broccoli and cauliflower.

After nearly four years of tracking and record keeping, J& K growers is ready to expand. They are adding three more greenhouses and will have 18,000 square feet of greenhouse space. They partly attribute their success to their detailed record keeping. They learn from trial and error and record their mistakes to make sure they don’t repeat them. By tracking detailed information they are able to see patterns develop which helps them do more with less. J & K Growers are not strictly organic, but they are pesticide free. They grow heirloom seeds for flavor rather than maximum productivity, and they pride themselves on high quality produce.

While most people won’t start a commercial growing operation, there are many opportunities to learn from the commercial growers. Try new things. Track your progress, keep records and don’t be afraid to fail. Mistakes lead to some happy discoveries.

Michelle Moore is the General Manager of the Greenhouse Catalog where she has worked with greenhouses for 20 years. Michelle writes and lectures about greenhouse gardening as an Oregon State University Master Gardener and member of Garden Writers Association. Michelle is a Fulbright Scholar and earned an International MBA from Thunderbird, School of Global Management. Michelle and her husband live in Oregon, but they enjoy hints of summer all year in their greenhouse! You can contact Michelle at: Michelle.Moore@GreenhouseCatalog.comThis e-mail address is being protected from spam bots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it or www.GreenhouseCatalog.com.

3.5
It’s 99° in the shade.
07/24/2009 - 13:08
Cool cell, water wall, or wet wall.

It’s almost July, and that means it’s hot.  In a greenhouse, it’s even hotter.  We’ve been flying through shade cloth as if there were some kind of national shortage.  But chances are pretty good that, this time of year, a simple shade cloth may not cut it.  With some shade and no other form of ventilation or cooling, temps in your building can still soar above 100°F; more than enough to torch your precious plants.  Exhaust fans and shutters can help a ton, but even with fans, shutters, and shade your greenhouse can only reasonably attain the outside temperature +/- a few degrees.

For heavy duty cooling, you need to call in heavy artillery.  By that I mean evaporative cooling, called variously a water wall, cool cell, wet wall, or swamp cooler.  With these systems you can actually lower the temperature inside your greenhouse 10-20 degrees below outside temperture, possibly more, depending on your specific environmental variables.

Evaporative cooling works kind of like a filter.  All of the air coming into your building passes through the pads of the cooler.  The cooler must be sealed properly so this is the case.  These pads have water running down them driven by a pump.  As the air passes through, water evaporates into it.  The evaporation process pulls heat out of the air, thus cooling it.  This air then flows into your building and is usually circulated with the help of circulation fans.  Something to keep in mind with evaporative cooling is that since it relies on water evaporation, efficiency is greatly increased in dry climates.  This is because humid air is already chock full of water, and cannot easily take on much more.

There are two main types of evaporative cooling systems, along with simple portable coolers.  The portable ones simply cool and recirculate the air inside your building and require only a water source and standard wall plug.  These are great for small hobby greenhouses, and can be coupled with a plug-thermostat to give you by-the-degree control.

The first kind of evaporative cooler is a negative pressure system.  Known as a cool cell, water wall, or wet wall, these are wall-sized systems that work in conjunction with your fans and shutters.  They are typically installed inside your building along one wall and sealed to the building.  Inlet shutters are located on the outside of the same wall, and exhaust fans stand opposite both.  When the exhaust fans kick on they pull air out of the building, and in through the shutters and cooler.

Two kinds of cool cell systems are available from us: an aluminum system and a PVC system.  Both are excellent options for your cooling needs.

Positive Pressure coolers.The second kind of evaporative cooler is a positive pressure cooler, commonly called a swamp cooler.  These are used often in lieu of true air conditioning in hot, dry locations such as the American Southwest.  They are small, box-shaped units that sit external to your building.  Inside is a round fan, often called a “squirrel cage.”  As the fan rotates, it pulls air into the unit through the cooling pads.  This air is then pushed into your building, and shutters located opposite the cooler allow for the hot air already inside your building to escape.  Again, circulation fans help move this air around a more consistent temperature.

Any of these options can help make the summer months bearable and productive in the greenhouse, and as always the efficiency of any cooling system can be increased by a simple shade cloth.  So analyze your situation, and if it calls for more ammo to fight the heat, consider an evaporative cooling solution.

Evaporative Cooling
4
Fool-Proof Gardening
07/24/2009 - 13:04

Great article here in the Wall Street Journal that discusses all the new products and gadgets aimed at recruiting younger, first time gardeners.  These include a multitude of products from growing boxes and bags, pre-fertilized soil, water conservation granules, and so on.  With the ranks of those growing at least some of their own food swelling this year, the gardening and gardening products market is having an influx of innovation.  Most of these products are geared toward making the likelihood of success much greater for a first time gardener since it can be incredibly frustrating to purchase 20 or 30 seed packets and end up with little to show for it.

These products are also good for the urban gardener who may not have the space for a garden of the in-ground variety.  Most of them can be set up on a patio or deck to yield plenty of  fresh vegetables for use throughout the growing season.

Even though standard container gardens can accomplish much of the same, at a lower cost, and the article portrays in-ground gardening as a much more tedious and difficult task than it really is, it’s still nice to see this kind of innovation in our industry.

Food
3
The Natural Greenhouse
07/24/2009 - 12:43

Garden and Greenhouse Logo
Contributed from Garden and Greenhouse Magazine
by Gini Coover

Choosing the Right Size, Location, and Type of Greenhouse

June is a good time to start planning your new greenhouse, so it can be completed and ready for use by the fall or winter. Whether it is your first greenhouse or an additional one, you will want to choose the right size, location, and type to reduce costs, create an efficient work environment, and make sure you don’t run out of space.

Choosing the Correct Size

Size is determined primarily by the quantity of plants you plan to grow during the period of cold weather when additional heat and protection from frost is required. Plants that prefer warmer climates can continue to grow inside the greenhouse to produce flowers, fruits, or vegetables through cold and warm seasons. Plants, requiring shade during both cold and warm weather, can be protected from direct sun with a shade cloth. Size also will be influenced by the amount of space and money you have available.

The square footage required can be determined by laying out a floor plan that includes growing areas, walkways, and work and storage spaces not provided for in other structures. Enough space should be provided to prevent plants from touching greenhouse walls during freezing weather and to allow adequate air circulation. Plants should be reachable from walkways or from between benches and beds to allow for regular watering, fertilizing, and insect and disease control.

Walkways must accommodate the movement of workers, customers, equipment, plants, and vegetables in and out of the greenhouse. However, you want to minimize your walk, work, and storage areas as much as possible, because only the growing areas provide income or plants and vegetables for your own use.

Will trucks need to back into the greenhouse to load and unload? If so, its doors will need to be large enough to accommodate them.

If money is tight, you can make the permanent greenhouse smaller by using less expensive temporary structures to raise early and late vegetables. Bedding plants can also be moved outside early to harden off, using temporary covers to protect them when frost is predicted.

Double and triple uses of greenhouse space allow for increased production per square foot. A simple wooden or metal frame can be built over a supply-storage area, creating more room for flats of plants. Temporary benches, filled with plants, can be set between rows of transplanted vegetables and moved as space needs change. Lettuce, spinach, radishes and other quick maturing crops can be planted early between tomato and pepper plants and harvested before later crops grow large enough to block the light.

Greenhouse rafters should be high enough to hang baskets above the heads of workers and customers, especially in walkways, yet low enough to water and fertilize regularly. They will need to be spaced far enough apart to grow without crowding and to allow light penetration to plants below.

Choosing the Best Location

Ask yourself a number of questions about possible locations. Is there room for delivery of supplies and removal of plants and vegetables? Can excess snow slide off the roof and be removed? Is the ground sloped adequately for drainage, but not too hilly or bumpy to work and move equipment safely?

Is the greenhouse far enough away from property lines, streets, tree limbs, and potential hazards? Never place your greenhouse within fifty feet of the drip line of black walnut trees if you plan to grow vegetables in the ground. The black walnut and some other nut trees produce juglone, a toxin that prevents tomato and pepper plants from growing.

Will sunlight reach all areas of the greenhouse for most of the day? All or portions of the greenhouse can be shaded if you plan to grow plants that require shade. If both sun and shade plants will be grown, the greenhouse can be located in the sun. Shade cloth can be used wherever shade is needed to allow flexibility in plant varieties from year to year.

Locate the greenhouse to maximize use of prevailing winds, but never locate plastic-covered greenhouses in a natural wind tunnel where high winds are likely to destroy the greenhouse film and blow flats off plants off their benches. Calculate its height before building begins to make sure it will not interfere with utility lines or block a priceless view. Make sure doors are conveniently located and accessible to other buildings.

Do you plan to open the greenhouse to the public? If so, can you provide adequate parking, space for customers to shop, and room for their children to wander around safely?

Consider long-term possibilities before placing your first greenhouse. If expansion is possible, consider where additional greenhouses will go. When you have concluded your first successful year, you will be tempted to expand. Then you will be glad you placed your first greenhouse in a location where it can stay and continue to be a useful part of a bigger operation.

Should You Buy a Manufactured Greenhouse or Build Your Own? This topic will be discussed in the Garden & Greenhouse July/August issue. If you are eager to begin building sooner there are two books that will provide you plenty of information. To build using wood and greenhouse film, read chapter 2 in The Natural Greenhouse, Growing Plants and Food for Profit, http://www.sunandshadepublications.com/. To use metal frames, glass or polycarbonate panels, read Greenhouses for Homeowners and Gardeners by John W. Bartok, Jr., http://www.nraes.org/.

 

Gini Coover is the author of The Natural Greenhouse, Growing Plants and Food for Profit. She has grown greenhouse plants and vegetables for twenty-six years, selling retail and wholesale from her greenhouse and at the Athens (Ohio) Farmers’ Market. She promotes natural greenhouse production through presentations and workshops. She can be contacted at

gini@sunandshadepublications.com

and the book can be ordered at http://www.sunandshadepublications.com/ or 740-594-4147.

Hobby Greenhouses
0
Suggested shade densities.
07/24/2009 - 12:35

It’s certainly shade cloth time of year, and orders for the stuff are absolutely pouring in! I figured this to be an excellent time to post the chart we use as a rough guideline to use when selecting the density of cloth to use with your particular plants. Hope this is helpful, and be aware that shade cloth may take a few weeks to arrive to you this time of year.

Remember you can always price a custom piece by using our custom shade cloth calculator.  Call 1-888-281-9337 to order a custom piece of shade cloth.

Density Plants
30% Asters, Chrysanthemums, Geraniums, and Snapdragons
40% Bedding Plants*, Gloxinias, Herbs*, Iris, Lilies, Vegetables*
50% Bromeliads, Ficus, Orchids (Dendrobiums, Epidendrums, Vandas)
60% Orchids (Oncidiums, Phalaenopsis)
70% Ferns, Orchids (Cypripediums), Philodendron
80% Ginseng
90% Aglaonema
Shade Cloth
0
The germination is complete.
07/24/2009 - 12:33
These are some of my mixed lettuce popping up!

You may have noticed the lack of a post last week…well, that’s because I’m a new father for the second time.  My wife gave birth Monday night, and here I am back at work (at least in the office) a week later.  The vacation from kids, housework, and weary wife is welcome. :)

I just wanted to post an update on my garden.  I used seeds from the Greenhouse Megastore, and they have been in the ground for just over two weeks.  I can happily report that everything has sprouted.  Even some tomato seeds I had serious questions about ended up germinating.

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