February 2009

Spring Propagation
02/25/2009 - 15:00

Garden & Greenhouse

Contributed from Garden and Greenhouse Magazine
by Angela Lundmark

 Take a Closer Look at Your Soil Temperature

Heat plays a vital role in your garden. Temperature is a major factor in determining, among other things, transpiration rates. Transpiration involves the use of about 90% of the water that enters the plants through the roots. It is necessary for mineral transport from the soil or medium, to move sugars and plant chemicals and for the maintenance of Turgor pressure. An increase in temperature or air movement decreases relative humidity and causes the guard cells in the leaves to shrink, opening the stomata and increasing the rate of transpiration. With all of these processes depending on us to keep up the heat, taking a closer look at your soil temperature may be an excellent way to save some energy this winter.

The majority of plants will do well if the soil temperature is kept above 73°Fahrenheit. Conventional grow lights are very hot, running from several hundred degrees to over fourteen hundred degrees Fahrenheit at the bulbs surface. While this excess radiated heat is often damaging to plants, the heat is also at least partially responsible for the growth rates that indoor gardeners have come to expect. When using LED lighting, the heat has been eliminated from the equation, so in order to ensure adequate transpiration rates we often need to supplement heat in order to maintain ideal growing conditions.

In most cases, the roots of the plants are growing in a smaller space than the upper plant, so it only makes sense that heating the smaller area would be more efficient and there are a number of ways that one can go about it. The heat mat is a simple method that is placed under trays, pots, or beds and can be controlled with a thermostat to keep soil temperatures optimal with almost no work on your part. A mat that will hold two standard trays will run you about $60 with a thermostat.

Greenhouses are using hot water pumped through hydronic tubing that is then wrapped in a loop on the benches or in the floor. These systems can be run off of alternative energy sources which give them the potential to be a very efficient option. Hot water systems can be turned on and off in different parts of the greenhouse allowing growers the ability to create mini climates within the system.

This year, as the cold weather approaches, when you consider turning up the high wattage electric heater or room thermostat, you may want to consider turning up the heat on the soil instead. Root temperature, it turns out, plays a larger role than leaf temperature in achieving plant growth. Research is showing that increasing soil temperature will increase photosynthesis. Best of all the studies show that by increasing the temperature at the root of the plant the upper plant is able to thrive in cooler temperatures, further reducing the energy required to keep your plants in an ideal environment. Gardening efficiently, changing the world one watt at a time.

 

Angela Lundmark is the CEO of LED Grow Master Global.  If you have any questions about this article or are looking for ideas on how to make your garden more efficient: Call Toll Free 1-866-414-7244 or visit online at www.led-grow-master.com.

plant health
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Beat the heat with some shade.
02/23/2009 - 17:53
Shade cloth is highly versatile and can be an attractive and practical cooling option.

It may seem absurd at this point, when the temps for some of us are still dipping into the teens at night, to begin talking about shade and cooling.  But this is precisely the time when you should begin analyzing your greenhouse and garden plan to make sure you have enough cooling to protect your plants from the brutal heat of summer.  Judging from the shade cloth inquiries we've been receiving, many of you are doing just this.

Shade cloth is a extremely versatile product.  It can be used for everything from privacy screen, to fence material, to awning material.  It comes in a variety of densities and we can provide it custom made to any specifications as long as the shape has only right angles (meaning no triangles or circles).  The most common application however, is for the material to act as a form of cooling.

For an excellent article on what exactly shade is, check out this technical article.  There are different qualities of shade, but essentially it's just an absence of direct light, and sunlight in particular. In a greenhouse a proper shade cloth can mean a difference of ten degrees or so, which is more than enough to influence the health of your plants.  In the garden, in can protect heat sensitive plants like lettuce and broccoli from the intensity of the mid-summer sun.  Shade cloth is one of my most recommended add-ons for a new hobby greenhouse owner. Around the house, I often hear that individuals want to put shade cloth over their patio to make an otherwise unusable space tolerable once again.  There is nearly a limitless set of applications for the material. So now is the time to consider whether or not you need some extra shade around your home or garden.  Once "shade cloth season" sets in, it takes longer for your cloth to arrive.  And when your dealing with delicous fresh vegetables or quality time on the patio, that's time you can't afford to waste.

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Where is the light?
02/18/2009 - 12:20
These DIY light sticks are a nifty way to get light to your indoor plants as long as you want to build them.

February can be pretty rough on people.  It's even worse on plants.  I can speak directly to this as my houseplants are in pretty sad shape right now for the want of direct, healthy light.  But a friend of mine posted a link to Facebook showing how to give your indoor plants a boost of light.  It requires that you be fairly handy, but the end result is a neat way to feed your plants the light they need during the most dreary month of the year.

They look great and they keep your plants healthy during the winter.  And since they're LED they use much less power than any other winter lighting option.  Plus you can take them directly to your plants instead of moving your plants to the light.  So if you are feeling adventurous during the cabin feverish days of winter, try to construct these light spikes.  Your plants will thank you for it.

Lighting
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Using thermostatic control in your greenhouse.
02/13/2009 - 18:03

Wow, we've been busy around here. I've been busy enough that I haven't had time to post in a while. But I've had a couple questions recently and I thought it was good to cover the issue of thermostat wiring since cooling season is right around the corner and heater season is still in effect for most of us.

A thermostat is a control system that allows you to automatically, effectively, and cheaply regulate the temperature within a structure. Most everyone is familiar with a thermostat, since your home usually will have one to run both your heating and cooling systems. They can be as simple as a cheap analog dial, and as complicated as multiple range, digital programmable thermostat.

Most people are familiar with household thermostats such as these.Thermostats such as these also happen to be great for hooking to a garage heater, which is mostly why we carry them. They are also very easy to wire for this purpose since they will typically only have two wires hooked to them. Basically, electricity is run to the heater in order to run the fan and ignitor, and a 2-wire low voltage line is run to the t-stat to tell the heater when to turn on and off.

However, these types of t-stats typically won't work well in greenhouse applications because a greenhouse is a wet environment. They are also typically only one-stage, meaning they are only able to turn equipment on or off at one temperature range. So what happens when you have a typical greenhouse equipment arrangement that consists of a heater, fans, shutters, and an evaporative cooling system?

For this specific setup, you'll need one 2-stage heat/cool thermostat, and 2 single-stage heat/cool thermostats.

It helps to think of the heater and evaporative cooling unit each as individual systems. The fans and shutters together are also a system, so in this example your building actually has 3 distinct climate control systems.

You'll want to first plan a location for your t-stats. A central location that enjoys sufficient air movement and is not too close to any environment altering equipment is best. For a greenhouse, directly in the center of the building at plant height is the optimum location.

Greenhouse thermostats are more rugged and are designed for wet locations.For the heater, connection to the thermostat is essentially the same as a heater in a garage. Run power to the heater, and then low voltage to the thermostat. However, with the heat/cool thermostat wiring makes a difference. Basically, the wires are connected in a specific way for cooling, and the opposite way for heating. You'll want to refer to the documentation with your thermostat to verify what the proper connection configuration is. Once you have found this, simply wire the thermostat to control the heater. For the evaporative cooling system simply do the same but wire the connections for cooling. There; you have 2 of your 3 systems wired and ready to go!

Wiring the fans and shutters is only slightly more complicated. First, you need to make sure your t-stat can handle all your fans and all your shutters together; if not you will need more than one thermostat. The way to figure this is based on electrical amp load. Our 2-stage t-stat has a load capacity of 16 amps, meaning that all equipment hooked to any given t-stat can only draw, at a maximum, 16amps.

For example, suppose you have 2 fans and 4 shutters. Let's say each fan draws 5amps, and each shutter draws .5amps for a total amp load of 11.5amps. The t-stat should sufficiently handle this.

Now suppose two fans drawing 7amps each and 6 shutters at .5amps each for a total of 17amps. This configuration would need split between two t-stats, most likely one fan and three shutters per t-stat.

Assuming your configuration is more like the first, your initial course of action is to wire power to all of the equipment. Once this is done, run low voltage wire from your equipment to the thermostat. You will need to refer to your t-stat documentation as to the proper wiring configuration for your specific equipment.

Once this is done, it is very important that you set the temperature settings properly for your fans and shutters. Basically you need the shutters to open just prior to the fans turning on, so you need them set to turn on at a slightly lower temperature than the fans. If the fans turn on before the shutters are open, the fans will still draw air out of the building. However, there will be no inlet for air to replace the exhausted air. As a result, your building will be "sucked" in, causing harmful stresses to your structure. If the suction is large enough, it can seriously damage your building.

Once all of you equipment is wired properly and the t-stats are set to your desired temperature ranges, you can enjoy trouble-free and hands off control of your greenhouse environment.

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The Natural Greenhouse
02/09/2009 - 18:05

gnglogo1
Contributed from Garden and Greenhouse Magazine
by Gini Coover

Growing Vegetables through the Winter

Several varieties of vegetables can be grown and harvested in a greenhouse during the coldest part of the season without the use of toxic chemicals. They can be raised in a small greenhouse for your own use and in larger greenhouses to sell to local customers. Since growth rates slow as temperatures drop, plants need to be started early enough to reach maturity by the harvest date. Some varieties require additional light during short winter days for the onset of fruit. Seed companies can provide you with this information and lights can be installed when needed. Most varieties of lettuce, spinach, chard, broccoli, carrots, turnips, and other cold-tolerant plants, will continue to grow right through the winter in a closed greenhouse. When the temperature is below freezing outside, heat from the sun (including many cloudy days) will raise temperatures inside well above freezing. Keeping night temperatures at or just above freezing will allow cold tolerant plants to continue to grow.

My area, Southeastern Ohio, is located between zones 5 and 6 and cold-tolerant plants will grow through the winter with a little additional heat. Adding plant blankets and double plastic covers will reduce or eliminate the need for additional heat. The hardiest plants, including several varieties of greens, can tolerate temperatures as low as 25ºF–28ºF with little or no damage to the plant. Johnny’s Selected Seeds (www.johnnyseeds.com) recommends several plant varieties for winter greenhouses and nighttime temperatures below freezing.

Eliot Coleman, Harborside, Maine (zone 4), produces fresh vegetables for commercial sales in winter without supplementary heat. Using additional covers inside the greenhouse, he continues to harvest vegetables when it is too cold for the plants to grow. These methods are explained in his book The Winter-Harvest Manual, Farming the Back Side of the Calendar. (Four Season Farm, RR Box 14, Harborside, ME 04642.) I avoid growing tomatoes, peppers, squash, and other heat-loving vegetables during the two coldest months, because of the high cost of fuel. Their plants, however, can be started during these months in a well-insulated, well-lighted germination chamber or on well-lighted shelves in your house and can be transplanted into the greenhouse in March and April for early crops.

Germinating seeds yourself will provide you with healthy plants of the exact varieties you need on the desired dates. Seeds of tomato, cucumber, broccoli, squash, and most common garden varieties will germinate within 4–8 days in temperatures between 70°F–80°F. Pepper seeds take a little longer and prefer warmer temperatures, 75°F–85°F. The seeds of most salad greens, onions, and herbs will germinate between 60°F–70°F.

I use Fafard No. 2 or Promix BX General Purpose Growing Medium, but any mixture of finely chopped peat moss, perlite, vermiculate, and a complete nutrient fertilizer will provide good germination in packs and continued growth in containers. My favorite all purpose fertilizer is Peters 20-20-20.

By covering a shelf unit in your house with plastic, a tent-like cover can be created. A small thermostatically controlled space heater, located on the floor under or beside the shelf, can produce enough heat to maintain the desired temperature. [Be sure to locate the heater far enough away from the shelf and the cover to prevent a fire. Do not leave unattended for long periods of time.] Place a small thermometer on the top shelf (the hottest spot) to maintain the correct temperature range. Once germination is completed, shelf lights may produce more heat than is required and the temporary cover can be removed. Most plants grow well between 60°F–70°F, the temperature in most houses.

Plants grown in containers can be moved when desired. Those in raised beds may be high enough to make planting and care easier on your back. I prefer to transplant into the soil of the greenhouse floor. Before transplanting, add manure and organic matter to the greenhouse soil. Whatever methods are used to prepare a rich and fertile garden for your soil-type, can be used for your greenhouse. The soil is covered with a woven, porous polypropylene fabric, which allows water to penetrate, prevents weed growth, and reduces disease and insect problems. The black color of the fabric absorbs heat from the sun, adding warmth to the soil. A small hole is cut in the ground cover for each plant. For me, transplanting in the floor of the greenhouse is easier, maximizes production space, and saves time. It also saves the expense of containers, fertilizer, and the growing medium.

Cold, from the ground outside, will penetrate into the greenhouse through the soil. For small greenhouses an insulating barrier can be installed under greenhouse walls to keep greenhouse soil warmer. Cold tolerant plants, especially salad greens, don’t seem to mind, as long as the ground stays above freezing. In my 2,500 square-foot greenhouse, lettuce, spinach, peas, parsley, and chard, planted near the walls, keep growing without an insulating barrier as long as inside temperatures remain above 32°F.

If you want to raise tomatoes, peppers, beans, cucumbers and other warm-weather plants during the coldest part of the winter, a nighttime temperature of 40°F–50°F must be maintained for optimum plant growth and daytime temperatures should be around 60ºF or higher. To save on fuel costs, these varieties should be located as far as possible from the outside walls of the greenhouse and enclosed in small tent-like covers (for a few plants) or double insulated areas (for larger crops). Heat that leaks through the cover will raise the temperature of the rest of the greenhouse where cold-tolerant plants will benefit.

Growing vegetables and harvesting them through the winter provides high-quality food for your own table and crops to sell at a time when few local vegetables are available. Small greenhouse owners can sell extra produce to neighbors and friends directly from the greenhouse. Larger producers can find interest among farmers’ market customers and the managers of cooperatives and locally owned grocery stores and restaurants.

Gini Coover is the author of The Natural Greenhouse, Growing Plants and Food for Profit. She has grown greenhouse plants and vegetables for twenty-six years, selling retail and wholesale from her greenhouse and at the Athens (Ohio) Farmers’ Market. She promotes natural greenhouse production through presentations and workshops. She can be contacted at gini@sunandshadepublications.com and the book can be ordered at www.SunandShadePublications.com.This e-mail address is being protected from spam bots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it

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Cut your costs in '09: Plant a Garden
02/02/2009 - 12:25
Growing your own vegetable garden is a great way to save yourself a little money this year.

By all accounts, 2009 is going to be a pretty rough year on an economic and personal finance front.  It has certaily show signs of going that direction already.  However, with turmoil comes the opportunity for change.  To be able to take a fresh look at your situation and try something different. If you have always wanted to grow and maintain your very own vegetable garden, then current events may just be the catalyst you need to pull you off the fence and into the dirt.  Growing your own vegetables has many advantages over simply going to the store.

  1. You personally know where your food has come from.
  2. It's the freshest, tastiest, and most nutritious way to enjoy food.
  3. It saves resources, since you're not having your food shipped thousands of miles to your dinner table any longer.
  4. You get the satisfaction of working the earth and providing for yourself
  5. It will save you money!

That last one may be the most important, since it's the one that seems to spawn people to action.  It's the reason the green movement is finally getting legs in the U.S.  So if you need some tangible example of the cost savings, here's an exerpt from the above linked article:

Kris and I own about two-thirds of an acre in Portland, Oregon. Since moving into this house in June 2004, we’ve been gradually building a garden of fruit, berries, and vegetables. In 2008, we conducted a year-long experiment. We tracked our garden expenses (in money and time) and also noted our “profit” from the harvest. Last month I posted detailed results for the project. Here’s a summary:

  • We spent $318.43 and 60 hours working in our garden during 2008.
  • We harvested $606.97 worth of produce, including $225.74 in berries, $294.59 in vegetables, and $66.63 in fruit.

For every dollar we spent on the garden, we harvested $1.91 worth of food. We hope to improve on that significantly in 2009. Last week Kris wrote about the winners and losers from our garden last year.

That's pretty convincing stuff, considering even more savings can be had through increased planning and efficiency.  So give it a try this year; make your plan and get started with your own garden!

saving money
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